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Chapter 7

Cadwalla, King of the West Saxons, goes to Rome for Baptism: his successor Ini also makes a pilgrimage of devotion to the shrine of the Apostles [a.d. 688]

In the third year of King Aldfrid’s reign, Cadwalla, King of the West Saxons, who had governed his people most ably for two years, abdicated from his throne for the sake of our Lord and his eternal kingdom and travelled to Rome. For, having learned that the road to heaven lies open to mankind only through baptism, he wished to obtain the particular privilege of receiving the cleansing of baptism at the shrine of the blessed Apostles. At the same time, he hoped to die shortly after his baptism, and pass from this world to everlasting happiness. By God’s grace, both of these hopes were realized. Arriving in Rome during the pontificate of Sergius, he was baptized on Holy Saturday before Easter in the year of our Lord 689, and he fell ill and while still wearing his white robes departed this life on the twentieth of April and joined the company of the blessed in heaven. At the time of his baptism, the aforesaid Pope had given him the name of Peter, in order that he might be linked by name to the most blessed Prince of the Apostles, to whose most sacred body the king’s devotion had brought him from the ends of the earth. He was buried in the Apostle’s church, and the Pope directed that an epitaph be inscribed on his tomb to preserve the memory of his devotion for ever and inspire all who read or heard of it to religious fervour. This inscription was as follows:

High rank and wealth, offspring, and mighty realms,

Triumphs and spoils, great nobles, cities, halls,

Won by his forbears’ prowess and his own –

All these great Cadwal left for love of God.

This royal pilgrim then sought Peter’s Chair

To slake his thirst at Peter’s vital spring,

And in his splendid, glowing light to bathe

From whom life-giving radiance ever streams.

Eager to win the prize of life renewed,

Converted, he converts his barbarous ways

And then his name itself to Peter’s own

At father Sergius’ word, that at the font

Christ’s grace may wash him from all taint of sin

And bring him clothed in white to heaven’s gate.

Great was his faith; Christ’s mercy greater still

Whose secret purpose mortals may not know.

Safely he came from Britain’s utmost shores

Through many peoples, over land and sea,

Bearing his mystic gifts, to visit Rome

And in the shrine of Peter lay them down.

Now, robed in white, he moves among Christ’s sheep:

His body lies entombed, his soul on high.

Wise king, his earthly sceptre to resign,

And win from Christ in heaven His promised crown.

Cadwalla, also known as Peter, King of the Saxons, was buried here on the twelfth day before the Kalends of May, the second indiction. He lived about thirty years, during the reign of the most pious Emperor Justinian Augustus, in the fourth year of his Consulship, and in the seond year of the pontificate of our apostolic lord Pope Sergius.

On Cadwalla’s departure for Rome, he was succeeded as king by Ine, who was of the blood royal. Having ruled the nation for thirty-seven years, Ine also abdicated and handed over the government to younger men.1 He then set out to visit the shrines of the blessed Apostles during the pontificate of Gregory [II], wishing to spend some of the time of his earthly pilgrimage in the vicinity of the holy places, hoping thereby to merit a warmer welcome from the saints in heaven. At this period, many English people vied with one another in following this custom, both noble and simple, layfolk and clergy, men and women alike.


  1. Ine (Ini) was powerful and important. His law code (EHD I, 364–72) reveals a Christian society so well established that some breaches of Church law met secular punishment; there are also passages which reveal the existence of high-status Britons under Saxon rule. As a pilgrim to Rome at the end of his life he was in the company of several other Anglo-Saxon kings. He ruled from 688 to 726.